1부 – 서론 및 단편화

많은 사람들은 컴퓨터의 성능이 나이가 들면서 저하된다는 인상을 받고 있습니다. 저는 이러한 통념을 없애고 싶습니다. 컴퓨터는 대부분 수명에 크게 영향을 받지 않는 솔리드 스테이트 기술입니다. 오래된 컴퓨터가 더 느리게 실행되지 않는다는 말은 아니지만 속도 저하가 변경 불가능한 노후로 인해 발생한다는 개념을 수정하면 문제는 일반적으로 새 컴퓨터를 구입하지 않고도 해결할 수 있는 문제가 됩니다 메이플pc방대리.

먼저 컴퓨터 속도를 저하시키지 않는 원인 이 무엇인지 알아보겠습니다 .

• 컴퓨터 프로세서는 디지털 전자 트랜지스터와 같은 스위치로 단단한 플라스틱 패키지에 밀봉되어 있습니다. 이들은 작동하거나 작동하지 않는 솔리드 스테이트 장치입니다. 전력 서지에 노출되면 튀겨질 수 있지만 그렇지 않으면 속도가 느려지지 않습니다.
• 컴퓨터 메모리는 유사한 구성 요소로 구성되며 작동하거나 작동하지 않거나 동일합니다.
• 컴퓨터 마더보드는 일반적으로 더 많은 솔리드 스테이트 장치가 연결되거나 납땜된 플라스틱 조각의 와이어 트레이스에 불과합니다. 마더보드도 느려지지 않습니다.
• 컴퓨터 전원 공급 장치는 컴퓨터가 경험하는 가장 극한의 조건에 노출됩니다. 그렇기 때문에 대부분의 다른 부품보다 더 자주 소진되지만 성능 저하를 일으키지는 않습니다. 그들은 작동하거나 작동하지 않습니다.

그렇다면 컴퓨터가 오래되면 느려지는 원인은 무엇 입니까 ? 

가장 큰 원인은 데이터 저장입니다. 서랍에 있는 유일한 항목인 경우 파일 캐비넷에서 무언가를 찾으려고 한다고 상상해 보십시오. 찾기가 꽤 쉬울 거에요, 그렇죠? 서랍에 항목이 몇 개만 있어도 원하는 항목을 찾기 위해 항목을 훑어보는 것은 여전히 ​​간단할 것입니다. 서랍이 가득 차 있다면? 시간이 조금 더 걸릴 수 있습니다. 운영 체제, 응용 프로그램 및 데이터를 설치할 때 하드 드라이브에서 일어나는 일입니다. more.mp3 노래를 다운로드하거나 카메라에서 more.jpg 사진을 가져오거나 새로운 워드 프로세싱 문서를 입력할 때마다 하드 드라이브인 파일 캐비넷에 더 많은 것을 채우게 됩니다.

프로세서나 메모리와 달리 하드 드라이브는 일반적으로 솔리드 스테이트 장치가 아닙니다. 움직이는 부분이 있습니다. 결과적으로 하드 드라이브 데이터를 읽거나 쓰는 데 걸리는 시간은 RAM이나 USB 썸 드라이브와 같은 솔리드 스테이트 장치보다 1,000배 정도 느립니다. 여기에 점점 더 많은 것을 추가한다는 사실과 결합하면 문제를 이해하기 시작할 수 있습니다.

실제로는 당신이 상상하는 것보다 훨씬 더 나쁩니다. 문서를 하드 드라이브에 저장하면 드라이브의 특정 공간에 저장됩니다. 컴퓨터는 가능한 한 효율적으로 하드 드라이브 공간을 할당하려고 시도하므로 이후에 드라이브에 더 많은 내용이 기록되면 다음에 사용 가능한 순차 공간에 저장됩니다. (이 글을 읽는 하드 코어 기술자의 경우, 예, 이 설명이 프로세스를 심각하게 단순화한다는 것을 알고 있습니다.) 안타깝게도 다음에 해당 초기 문서를 편집할 때 드라이브에 새 데이터를 위한 연속 공간이 없다는 것을 의미합니다. 저장되기 때문에 결국 문서의 첫 번째 부분과 분리되어 다른 곳에 저장됩니다. 나중에 이 문서를 다시 메모리로 읽으려고 하면 연속적으로 저장된 문서의 경우보다 시간이 조금 더 걸립니다. 컴퓨터가 문서를 읽는 도중에 나머지 부분을 찾기 위해 건너뛰어야 하기 때문입니다. 이것을 단편화라고 합니다. 조각화의 또 다른 원인은 파일이 삭제될 때 컴퓨터가 이후에 저장된 데이터로 채우려고 시도하는 구멍을 생성하지만 구멍은 저장되는 새 파일에 적합한 크기가 거의 없기 때문에 새로 저장된 파일도 손상됩니다. 연속되지 않은 조각으로.

귀하의 사용이 귀하의 드라이브에서 조각화를 일으키는 유일한 힘이라고 생각하지 마십시오. 가상 메모리, 최근 파일에 대한 포인터, 다양한 캐시 파일 및 업데이트/패치는 항상 하드 드라이브 공간을 사용하고 해제하여 의도적으로 다른 파일을 컴퓨터에 저장하지 않더라도 조각화를 일으킵니다. 다행스럽게도 단편화는 비교적 쉽게 치료할 수 있습니다. Microsoft Windows에는 이 작업을 수행하는 도구가 함께 제공됩니다. 우리가 해야 할 일은 때때로 이 도구를 사용하는 것뿐입니다. 이 도구는 디스크의 파일을 재배열하여 모든 파일을 연속적으로 저장하기 위해 최선을 다합니다. 다행스럽게도 하드 드라이브에 저장하는 많은 항목이 자주 변경되지 않습니다. 운영 체제 파일, 설치된 응용 프로그램, 심지어 음악과 사진까지도 콘텐츠나 크기가 거의 변경되지 않으므로 하드 드라이브의 덜 역동적인 영역으로 조각 모음을 수행하면

PART II – DIGITAL HOARDING

After fragmentation, the next issue to discuss about how hard drives slow down our computers is the increasing volume of data being stored on them. If you’ve seen a phonograph turntable, you have a rough notion of how a hard drive operates, but imagine it spinning much faster. Instead of 33 or 45 revolutions per minute, hard drives operate at 5,400, 7,200, 10,000, or even 15,000 revolutions per minute. For even the slowest hard drive to spin around to the complete opposite side of the disk may take under 1/100th of a second, but like a phonograph turntable, rotation isn’t the only motion the drive makes; the head also moves in and out, radially, and that motion is significantly slower. When a hard drive has little data on it, that data is generally stored close to the center, so the head only needs to traverse a tiny fraction of the radius of the disk, but as more and more data get stored, more of the radius of the disk is used, so the portion of the radius that the head must travel gets longer, making data reads and writes slower.

Fortunately, this type of performance degradation can frequently be mitigated, too. People tend to be terrible pack-rats about what they store on their computers. Hard drives become like black holes, collecting years of data that may never be used, needed, or even seen again. If the computer was faster when it was new, before it had all this data on it, you may well be able to restore it to that level of performance if you could clean out some of this data. There are countless ways to identify and remove unneeded data from a hard drive. Windows comes with a few tools that may help:

• Disk Cleanup searches for several categories of junk left on your drive and enables you to remove them.
• Add/Remove Programs helps you find and remove old applications and Windows Components that you no longer use or need.

자신의 오래된 문서, 음악, 영화 및 사진도 구문 분석하고 삭제하거나 오프라인 저장소(예: CD/DVD에 굽거나 네트워크 또는 인터넷 저장소 시설에 업로드)로 이동할 수 있습니다. 

극단적인 상황에서는 시스템 복원 캐시 크기 또는 휴지통과 같은 일부 캐시 크기를 줄일 수도 있습니다. 기본적으로 이들은 각각 하드 드라이브의 12%와 10%를 차지하며, 가지고 있지 않아야 할 항목을 삭제하는 경향이 있지 않는 한, 이를 반으로 줄이면 하드 드라이브의 1/9이 즉시 비워집니다. 과도한 위험.

Professionals may also be able to help you identify more ways of freeing up space, such as disabling Offline Files if the feature isn’t needed, deleting old user profiles, removing old printers, reducing Internet cache settings, etc. Frequently, programs leave remnants of themselves behind on your hard drive, even after being uninstalled; these may also be deleted. Misconfigured virtual memory settings may also hog up more of your hard drive than is actually needed.

PART III – APPLICATION CREEP

Besides hard drive data storage, there is another area in which computer performance may become degraded, appearing to be due to age: increasing demands on the processor and memory. We must divide this issue into two categories, though. One may be resolvable without upgrading your computer, whereas the other likely would not be.

The resolvable category is what I refer to as “Application creep.” Your computer probably came with a bunch of free and free-trial programs installed that you’ve never used. Most of these lie dormant on your hard drive until invoked, but some, like printer drivers, malware detectors, and hardware and software updaters load into memory every time you boot your machine. On top of these, you’ve probably installed more, whether you realized it or not. If you installed Adobe Reader, there’s a little piece of code that probably loads up on every restart of your PC – it makes it quicker for you to open.pdf files because part of the Reader is already in memory, but what about the 99% of the time that you’re not using it? Well, it still sits there, taking up resources, making other operations slower. Lots of other common applications have such components that automatically run when you boot your PC (aka “AutoRuns”), such as iTunes, Safari, QuickTime, Java, and more. Besides these AutoRuns, other unwanted programs sneak in, piggy-backed alongside programs you use. Those extra toolbars in your Internet Explorer window were the carefully-concealed payloads of lots of other programs you installed, and guess what – they use up resources unnecessarily every time IE is running. It’s not a big reach to realize that when unneeded things are using up resources, desirable operations work less efficiently.

The category that’s more difficult to resolve is the result of technological advancement. You bought your computer eight years ago, before Netflix ever started streaming movies, and now you expect it to do things it wasn’t intended to do. You finished the games you were playing and bought newer games, even though they demand more RAM, more hard drive space, and faster processors. You had a film camera before, but now you’re importing your digital cell phone photos from all of your trips, and you’ve started taking short videos, too!…and even if you don’t actively update any of your software or increase your utilization of it, updates may be happening behind the scenes. Microsoft Windows can update itself automatically, and in fact, many Microsoft software titles can be configured to do so. Adobe, Java, Real Player, iTunes, and Quicken prompt you for updates, and you just click “OK” without even thinking about it. Bug fixes come out, updated drivers are released, and you don’t want to be left vulnerable or outdated, so you accept them. Each of these updates places additional demands on your computer’s resources.

Look, we don’t all still carry around our first, brick-sized, analog-only, battery-guzzling cellular phones – we want the latest features, so we upgrade. At some point you have to make the decision to do that with your computer, too. Ultimately, you may find that even after thinning out your data, deleting your unwanted applications, and cleaning up your AutoRun programs as far as you reasonably can that your computer is still too slow for your taste. At that point, either upgrade or replace it. Hopefully, following the advice above will at least increase the amount of time between computer upgrades, saving you money.

PART IV – WHAT TO UPGRADE

So you’ve tried all the optimizing you could, and you’re still unsatisfied with the performance of your computer. Now what? Maybe it’s time to upgrade, but what should you upgrade? The whole system? Just some components? If time and money was no object, you’d just go buy the latest greatest system out there and hire someone else to reinstall and reconfigure all of your applications and transfer all of your data. Unfortunately, for many of us, that’s not the case. When faced with limited resources, we have to make decisions about the best ways to employ them. You’d hate to spend four-digits on a whole new computer system if all the old one needed was a memory upgrade. However, you’d also hate to waste money on RAM only to find that you’re still unsatisfied and still faced with the need to buy a whole new system. How can you tell what to do?

Windows comes with several tools to help us identify bottlenecks. Armed with that information, we can make better decisions about what to do to resolve them. Here’s a list of several of the more common bottlenecks:

• Network Connection – a low-speed network connection will make Internet access and any other network resource utilization slower.
• Main Memory – having insufficient RAM forces the PC to use a swap file on the hard drive instead, slowing down processing, task switching, and read/write operations.
• Processor – having too slow a processor or too few processors will impact the performance of virtually all operations. Less-expensive processors also lack L1 cache, which reduces their performance further.
• Hard Drive – slower hard drives affect the speed of all read/write operations, including cache files and virtual memory. Space utilization is also a consideration; the guideline is to utilize less than 50% of any hard drive’s capacity.

이러한 문제를 진단하려면 먼저 패턴을 확인하십시오. 성능 불만이 주로 웹 페이지 로드 속도와 관련된 경우 인터넷 연결 속도에 문제가 있음을 나타낼 가능성이 큽니다. 더 많은 응용 프로그램을 실행할 때 성능이 느려지면 메모리가 부족하거나 프로세서가 느려질 수 있습니다. 하드 드라이브 작동 표시등이 자주 켜져 있으면 메모리가 부족하거나 하드 드라이브가 너무 느리거나 꽉 찼음을 나타낼 수 있습니다. 추측을 시작점으로 삼으면 논문에 대한 증거를 찾고 싶을 것입니다. 시작하기에 좋은 곳은 Windows 작업 관리자입니다. Ctrl-Alt-Del을 누르면 실행 중인 Windows 버전에 따라 작업 관리자 또는 링크가 표시됩니다. 

Let’s start with the Performance tab; it provides lots of good information. First, the number of panes of CPU Usage History shows you how many CPU cores your system has. Utilization should normally be low unless you have a ton of stuff actively running. If any of the graphs are pegging the needle at the top of the chart, there is more demand being placed on your processor than it can handle. The PF Usage charts show how much RAM is being used. Ideally you want this to be low, too. The more applications you have running, the more RAM is required. As we mentioned, once the computer runs out of actual memory, it makes more room by moving less-frequently-used data into “virtual memory,” which is actually stored on the hard drive. When it needs it back, it swaps the next-least-frequently-used data to the hard drive to make room to swap the needed data back in. All of these operations take time, so if the PF Usage is up at or near the top of your graph, you have insufficient RAM to meet your demands.

Another helpful tool to see the processor and RAM that are installed in your PC is the System Properties in the Control Panel. Press Windows-Break as a shortcut to bring that up. The Pentium-4 processor is today’s standard, and if you have an older one, I wouldn’t bother trying to upgrade – just replace the PC. Different operating systems have different memory requirements, but having at least 1 GB of RAM is pretty common nowadays.

Back to the Task Manager, on the Networking tab, don’t be surprised if your network utilization is frequently at or below one percent. A typical desktop computer has a network interface card (NIC) capable of communicating at 100 or even 1,000 million bits per second – even older NICs could communicate at 10 Mbps. A typical broadband Internet connection (such as a cable modem, high-speed DSL, or fiber optic connection), however, operates in the vicinity of 1 Mbps, and that’s only when downloading large files under perfect conditions. If you’re connected to other local network resources, such as servers or network printers, you may be able to use more of your available bandwidth, but if your sole network utilization is your Internet access, the bottleneck will always be the Internet connection rather than the computer’s network connection. Now that we’ve cleared that up, if you find the graph showing utilization at or near 100%, your network card may be too slow for your requirements, but if you’re unhappy with the speed of Web pages loading despite low network connection utilization, you need to upgrade your Internet connection instead of your PC.

PART V – UPGRADING

Now that you’ve identified the problem, you need to decide how to deal with it. Some issues can be overcome by minor upgrades, but others aren’t worth the cost or trouble, and are an ideal opportunity to replace the PC.

If you’ve decided that you don’t have enough RAM, that’s usually the cheapest and easiest upgrade you can make to your PC. Depending on how much you have and how many slots your motherboard has, you may be able to install additional DIMMs or you may need to replace existing lower-capacity DIMMs with larger-capacity ones. There are dozens of incompatible varieties of memory, so if you’re not sure what you need, the best thing to do is to check the owner’s manual that came with your PC when you bought it. You still have it, right? If not, either take a DIMM out and bring it with you to the store or if you’re buying online, search by the make and model of your PC, rather than for the type of memory.

If you’ve decided that your network card is too slow, you can probably install a faster one into a card slot or even a USB port – this, too, is a relatively inexpensive and easy upgrade to perform. Most PCs built in the last 10 years have PCI slots, so you can probably look for a PCI-technology network interface card (NIC) at your local computer store or online. They come in wired or wireless varieties, depending on how you’ll be connecting your PC to your network. If you’d rather not open your PC, both wired and wireless NICs come in USB varieties nowadays, too. If your Internet connection is too slow, you won’t have to do a thing to your computer – just contact your ISP and discuss your options for upgrading your service to a higher bandwidth – or shop around to see what the other ISPs are charging.

If you decide that your processor is insufficient, it’s usually best to just replace your PC. Motherboards are designed to work with a small range of different model processors, and even if yours was the low-end model, the cost and trouble to upgrade to the high-end processor wouldn’t produce a noticeably-worthwhile improvement; trade up for a PC with more processor cores, instead. The only exception to this rule might be if your motherboard allowed you to upgrade from a processor without L1 cache (such as a Celeron) to a processor with L1 cache – that could produce a noticeable-enough improvement to warrant the cost and difficulty. If so, check your owner’s manual (or specs online) to see which processors your motherboard will accommodate, and if you decide to do it, once you factor in the cost of your time and effort, it’s probably best to just upgrade to the best and fastest one available – you don’t want to have to do this again in a year when you outgrow a tiny incremental improvement.

Historically, when a computer’s hard drive became the bottleneck, it was usually a point at which we recommended replacing the entire system. In some cases, however, the rules have changed today. Replacing a hard drive involves reinstalling the operating system and all the applications, as well as transferring all the personal files and data, so it’s usually such a labor-intensive process as to make it the ideal time to upgrade the rest of the PC along with it. Today, however, with the popularity of digital photography,.mp3 music files, videos, and other space-hogging multimedia data, it’s frequently possible to optimize an existing hard drive by offloaded all such personal files and data to external storage. USB flash drives are now available in 64 GB or more, and external USB hard drives exceed 1 TB (which is 1,024 GB). It’s a pain in the butt to have to change the installed location of most applications and Windows components, but to move data files is significantly less trouble. In fact, to further improve performance, you could even offload your PC’s virtual memory file to a second (internal) hard drive without too much trouble. As we discussed earlier in this treatise, the more stuff you have on your hard drive, the less efficiently it operates, so by moving all this type of non-system-critical data off of the hard drive that contains the operating system and the applications, you may be able to restore most of the PC’s youthful performance without too much trouble.

Ultimately, all of these optimizations and upgrades are only stop-gap measures. Software patches and updates will continue to require increasingly-more space on your main hard drive, and you’ll probably add more features and applications over time. Even if you’re terribly miserly with space on your main hard drive, there are still increasing demands. It’s also one of the few mechanical components in your PC, so its lifespan can already be expected to be shorter than any of the solid state components. At some point you’re going to need a new main hard drive, and at that point, I’d still stick with my position that it’s a good opportunity to replace the whole PC.